Slipping stones and steep hills

Trekking in Annapurna is amazing, everyone who has ever been knows that. It is my 3rd time back, where the last time actually only was a couple of weeks ago with my cousin Anki and my friend Milka and her family. We did a short-ish trek for 2 days and had a great time.

Before crossing a suspension bridge

This time my friend Dan is here and he also wanted to see what all this noise about trekking in Nepal is all about, and yes, I have been preaching to everyone about it and now it is time to show off.

We started yesterday with a route I did 2 years ago, from Nayapol to Ghandruk. Nayapol is at 1,040m and Ghandruk at 1,960m, so it is a big climb up never ending steps, mixed up with a couple of roads and suspension bridges. We were quite happy to reach Gandruk, got company on the last bit from a Hungarian guy, Marton, who had decided to trek to Annapurna Base Camp. A trek that takes 9 days they say, he had only a week. I tried to advise him on another route that he could quite nicely enjoy as well, but he wanted to fulfil his dream. We said goodnight and I silently hoped he would see the good thing about actually enjoying the trek and being able to see mountains, meet people, have a chance to breath.. Ah well.


We got up at 5.30am the next day to see if we were lucky enough to see some views, but we only got some partial views of Annapurna South and the bottom of the Fishtail. After an omelette and refilled water bottles, we started to descend all the millions and millions of steps we had gone up yesterday, just in a slightly different direction.

A little piece of Annapurna South..

The steps were again never ending, but downhill this time. It was very challenging but when we saw the goats and cows stepping down, we kind of pushed a bit more. 

We walked along the other side up up

After 1,5h we had reached the river at the bottom of the valley, and it was a bit strange to look up and see how far we had gone. 

Lunch with a view in Landruk

Some other trekkers on the path..

Then we looked the other side to see how far we had to climb to the next milestone, the village of Landruk. "Only" 600m to ascend, steep uphill steps... After we managed to get through the herds of goats coming down, we struggled but made it up, even 30 mins faster than expected. We had a Sprite to add some energy and decided to walk on for a lunch break at the next village. The best Sprite ever, even with the sound effects from all around us. 

After some more steps and road walks, we reached the lunch place. Noodles and rice, and off we went. The next phase of the route was a climb from 1,600m to 2,150m. And we knew we had to walk on a road, which we both liked as the steps are a killer, both down and up. 

Landruk village

But in the end, we had to go off the road and start the steep step death. Up straight through the jungle for about an hour - the jungle felt untouched, so quiet and peaceful. We heard some monkeys in the background and could see some movement in the trees, but otherwise nothing. 

Step step step

We reached a house almost at the top of the hill where a lonely woman was selling various yak wool clothing and other bits. She must have the most amazing home, for one liking tranquillity, apart from when the cows, goats or tourists are marching up and down.

An old guy up on a hill

When we reached the top, we decided to just walk through the place to get to Pothana, the next village on our way down. The trail now started to be nicer, no steps and quite flat, so it was much easier to walk. Until the rain came...
The stones were slippery and we almost slid every other step. When walking on the side of the stones, the mud was so wet that we slipped there too. But we made it. But then the real rain came.. Torrential some may say, it was just open skies and very heavy.

Heavy rain in Pothana

The time was after 5pm, and we knew we only had until 6pm, when the darkness comes, to reach Dhampus where we wanted to stay overnight. We reached it just in time, but we both almost gave in as we had a long day behind us.. 9h of walking in this terrain is not a piece of cake, but we made it and we did well. 

The one and only taxi when we came where the trek finished.. 

The shower and beer where we are staying are hard to beat, just hoping the feet will be ok on the way down to Pokhara tomorrow. Steep downhill for a few hours. 

We did it! Finished! Officially knackered.

When back to Pokhara, I will enjoy a change of clothes, washing and then getting ready to leave for my next trek here Friday in the same region, as my friend Anamika and I are aiming high to reach Mardi Himal Base Camp as well as Annapurna Base Camp. 

Love & light
Jen xx